How to line your lips like a makeup artist
If you have ever wondered how to use lip liner without it looking harsh, you are not alone. It is one of the questions I hear most, from clients in my chair and from friends at dinner.
After decades of working on models and actresses, I can tell you the secret is not a steady hand. It is the right pencil and a softer approach. Here is exactly how I line lips on set with Hot Line Long-Wearing Lip Liner.
Why lip liner matters
A good lip liner does three quiet things. It gives your lips shape and a little dimension, it keeps lipstick from wandering into fine lines, and it helps your color last through coffee, conversation and everything in between. When it is done well, nobody notices the liner. They just notice your lips look beautiful.
How to line your lips, step by step
- Start with soft, prepped lips. My lip routine always starts with prep, not color. I apply Botanical Balm Hyaluronic Lip Tint thickly, like a lip mask, and leave it on while I do the rest of the face. Then I blot it off with a tissue so the pencil can grip.
- Trace just outside your natural line. With a freshly sharpened pencil, start at the center of the top lip and work out toward each corner in small, light strokes, then do the same along the bottom lip. Staying a hair outside the line builds dimension and a fuller look without it ever reading as overdrawn.
- Fill in fully as a base. Now fill in your whole lip with the liner. This is the step most people skip, and it makes the biggest difference. A full base gives lipstick something to hold on to, so your color wears longer and fades evenly instead of leaving a ring.
- Add color. You can stop right here for a soft, natural lip. Or add color on top. I love Kissen Lush Lipstick Crayon over Hot Line for a comfortable, creamy finish.
- Soften the edges. Press your lips together gently, then use a fingertip to soften the line where liner meets lipstick. You want a blend, not a border.
Trace just outside your natural line to build dimension, then fill in fully as a base to make any lip color wear longer.
How to choose a lip liner shade
For everyday, I reach for a nude lip liner that is close to your natural lip color, or one shade deeper. It defines without announcing itself and works under almost any lipstick. For bolder lips, match your liner to your lipstick so the color reads as one.
The Hot Line shades were developed from decades of working on models and actresses, so there is a natural-looking option for every complexion.
A soft everyday nude for lips with pink undertones.
A warmer nude with a touch of brown.
A gentle rose for a fresh, polished lip.
A warm, glowing salmon for an easy everyday lip.
A deep berry for definition under richer lip colors.
A true red to sit under a classic red lip.
My favorite liner and lipstick pairings
| Kissen lipstick | Hot Line underneath |
|---|---|
| Romy | Kelly |
| Valentina | Renae |
| Magdalena | Renae, Kelly or Sandi |
What makes Hot Line different
I made Hot Line to feel as good as it looks. It is creamy, so it moves with you instead of tugging, and it is smudge-resistant once it settles. It is blended with jojoba oil, shea butter and marula oil to keep lips soft and comfortable, with candelilla and carnauba wax to help the line stay where you put it. Like everything we make, it is clean, vegan and cruelty-free.
Keep your liner sharp
A sharp pencil gives you a clean, precise line. I use the Point Taken pencil sharpener on set. Its stainless-steel German blade sharpens smoothly without wasting product, and the cover holds the shavings so your makeup bag stays tidy.
The takeaway
Prep, trace just outside your natural line, fill in fully, and soften the edges. A few simple steps for soft, beautiful lips that look like you, only more defined, and last for hours.
Your questions, answered
Should lip liner be darker than lipstick?
For a natural look, choose a liner close to your lip color or one shade deeper. For bold color, match the liner to your lipstick. A liner much darker than your lipstick tends to look dated.
Do you put lip liner on before or after lipstick?
Before. Line and fill your lips first so the liner works as a base, then add lipstick on top and soften the edges with a fingertip.
How do I make my lips look fuller with lip liner?
Trace just outside your natural lip line, following your own shape, then fill in fully. Staying a hair outside the line adds dimension without looking overdrawn.
Can I wear lip liner on its own?
Yes. Fill in your whole lip with Hot Line and press your lips together for a soft, long-wearing lip. Add a little balm on top if you want more shine.
How do I stop lip liner from smudging?
Start with smooth lips, blot away extra balm before lining, and use a smudge-resistant formula like Hot Line Long-Wearing Lip Liner.